And we are off! It is sort of a relief to be on the road, living on the high of insecurity instead of in suspense of it. And we certainly have had some adventures. On our second night in Jaipur, after a hard day's work seeing palaces and their 'ethnic' displays, I decided we needed to head out and see the Temple of the Sun God, on a hill way out on the edge of town. Why? Because of the monkeys!
Earlier that day we were sitting at Jaipur's Jantar Mantar, pondering the astronomical marvels, when August said, "Whoa! Look at that cat! Wait!? Is that a puma?!!" It was a monkey, running along the top of the park's wall. I think that was the high point of the trip at that point, and made me think of the picture a six-year-old Emma drew me of a monkey, becuase it was my favorite animal. So how could I resist going to a temple famous for the monkeys that live around it.
It turned out to be a rather longer walk than I had calculated, but it made such a nice change. Jaipur is very heavily touristed, and every block we walk we are accosted by at least three very persistent rickshaw drivers. It's hard to remember that most Indians are probably as nice as Pratishtha and her family. But this night, walking out of town in the dusk, we finally got out of the tourist district. It was like being back in Syria, with people (mostly children and young men filled with bravado) saying 'hello,' and being both shy and delighted at getting a response. They seemed particularly amused if I gave them a 'namaste.'
It was completely dark by the time we got to the hill to the temple. But as we approached the path, we saw them. Dozens of monkeys sitting all along the edges of walls and prowling the darkened corners, watching. They were waiting for us. Apparently many visitors to the temple bring food to attract them, and they have come to expect it. During the day, maybe it would seem funny to see monkey scamper about you, like pidgeons at San Marco in Venice, but at night they seemed more likely to carry us off for dinner.
Accompanying the monkeys were several goats (who tried to eat my plastic bag), a cow, a cat and a boar(!). We walked part way up the hill, surrounded by strangely human stares, and one made a try for my shopping bag, giving us both a good scare. It was too dark to try for a picture, so you'll have to use your imagination. We eventually decided to turn back, not entirely out of fear of the monkey army, but because there were vagrant families cooking dinner on the path, and it seemed disrespectful. I don't know how sorry we were, though.
So it was quite the day for animals, considering we had already seen elephants and camels walking in the streets (camels are used for pulling carts here), and later that night a man galloped down the street on a bejewelled horse. But nothing could compare with the monkeys.
Saturday, March 29, 2008
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Happy Holi!
Despite the situation in Tibet, my luck in timing also brought me to India for two birthdays and, more impressively, the Hindu holiday Holi. Holi is the festival of colors, celebrating spring. But one doesn't celebrate Holi, one plays Holi. In the two blocks August and I walked from the hotel we are now staying at to Pratishtha's Mummy's house, a couple of "Holi-gans" got us with handfuls of pink gulal (powdered color). When we got to the house, Pratishtha's Mummy added some more colors (in a more tender fashion), and her brother added some fragrant sandalwood paste.
But when Pratishtha and Saurabh showed up with the squirt-guns, the fight began in earnest and we had to move up to the roof.
We were all throwing colored powder at each other, and making good use of a hose and buckets of water. Luckily it was burning hot, and the water was more refreshing than anything. Saurabh was particularly playful, and had to put up with a good deal of retribution from his wife. See how cheerful he is while Pratishtha gets him with the hose:
Oh, and August is here now. He is even luckier, having inadvertently flown in on Holi Eve. India made quite the first impression on him, and his clothes. I washed all of our clothes five or six times that night, and I still have a tie-dyed bra. Not to mention that my ear was yellow for days afterwards.
Here's my final work of art. Unfortunately nobody took a very good picture of me, but you can imagine.
A few days later we left Delhi, and I had to say goodbye to Pratishtha and her family again. I just barely managed to hold back the tears this time, though it was pretty hard. It's sort of unbelievable how welcome they can make me feel, and how attached I have become for only having seen them for two weeks separated by a year. Mummy was very insistent that she would see me soon, though, as it looks like Pratishtha's brother will be getting married within the year.
But when Pratishtha and Saurabh showed up with the squirt-guns, the fight began in earnest and we had to move up to the roof.
We were all throwing colored powder at each other, and making good use of a hose and buckets of water. Luckily it was burning hot, and the water was more refreshing than anything. Saurabh was particularly playful, and had to put up with a good deal of retribution from his wife. See how cheerful he is while Pratishtha gets him with the hose:
Oh, and August is here now. He is even luckier, having inadvertently flown in on Holi Eve. India made quite the first impression on him, and his clothes. I washed all of our clothes five or six times that night, and I still have a tie-dyed bra. Not to mention that my ear was yellow for days afterwards.
Here's my final work of art. Unfortunately nobody took a very good picture of me, but you can imagine.
A few days later we left Delhi, and I had to say goodbye to Pratishtha and her family again. I just barely managed to hold back the tears this time, though it was pretty hard. It's sort of unbelievable how welcome they can make me feel, and how attached I have become for only having seen them for two weeks separated by a year. Mummy was very insistent that she would see me soon, though, as it looks like Pratishtha's brother will be getting married within the year.
Monday, March 17, 2008
Changing plans....
So, given the way things in Tibet have been escalating, it looks like there is no way August and I are going to be able to go there. Staring at a map of Asia has told me that the only other land routes to China are either through Kashmere, Pakistan + Afganistan, or Burma, none of which are really viable options for land travel. There goes the epic overland adventure. I suppose there is always the possibility of going over water, though....
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Pratishtha's Fake Birthday
Yesterday Pratishtha celebrated the fake birthday that she was given so that she could start school a year earlier. We made all kinds of delicious food (I was instructed to make a casserole), and dyed Easter eggs with the kit I brought from home. Pratishtha got into the spirit, and was especially excited about the egg-wrappers that shrink in boiling water. We also had a fancy store-bought pineapple cake, which ranks among the best cakes I have ever had.
The other big news yesterday was the report of huge protests and riots in Tibet, and their violent suppression by the Chinese government. Today the Times of Delhi said that all foreign travel to Tibet had been forbidden. There is a slight possibility that things could smoothe out before August and I would be trying to go, but it seems like things will only get more tense as the Olympics gets closer. So, I guess I'll have to start working on a back-up plan. Ah me. I seem to have bad luck this way.
Friday, March 14, 2008
Delhi
I didn't realize how cold Austria had been until I got to Delhi. And I don't just mean the weather. Apparently the Viennese are famous for being reserved to the point of rudeness, but it is hard to get used to. For example, when I went to the ticket counter at the trainstation and tried to buy a ticket in my best German, the clerk seemed really annoyed that I was bothering him.
Pratishtha and her family are about as far from that as you can get. I'm staying with Pratishtha and her husband, Saurabh, in their condo in the suburbs. It's a very nice house by Delhi standards, with a full kitchen, two bedrooms and two bathrooms. They have also done it up very nicely since I saw it at the wedding, though there is surprisingly little hot pink involved in the color scheme, given what I know of Pratishtha's tastes. I even have a bedroom to myself, since Saurabh's mother is out of town this week.
Yesterday Pratishtha dropped me off at her mother's house before going to the University (where she is working on a MA in Italian). They talked me into taking a nap for a few hours. When I got up, Pratishtha's Mummi showed me how to make a kind of fried bread called Paranthas, and we had them for lunch with some spicy eggplant. She seems a little shy about the amount of English she knows, so we don't really talk too much, but I love being with her.
Then she and I went to the largest of Delhi's Gandhi museums. It was mostly photographs and text summaries (Hindi and English) housed in a fairly run-down building. They also had, displayed in glass cases, what were definitely relics: his glasses, the clothes he had been wearing when he died, wool yarn he had spun, books he had read. There was also a collection of spinning wheels, which introduced me to his economic philosophy, which you don't hear so much about in the US. After the museum we went across to Raj Ghat, where he was cremated, then Pratishtha picked us up and we went home.
Later that evening Pratishtha's Mummi presented me with a beautiful silk salwar kameez. Thinking it must be one of here own or Pratishtha's I tried to say I couldn't take it, and that it was too beautiful for the kind of travelling I was going to be doing. She explained that in fact she had had made for me before I came, and finished off by saying in very plain English, "You too are my daughter."
I suppose I brought a larger backpack precisely so that I could bring these kind of memories home.
Pratishtha and her family are about as far from that as you can get. I'm staying with Pratishtha and her husband, Saurabh, in their condo in the suburbs. It's a very nice house by Delhi standards, with a full kitchen, two bedrooms and two bathrooms. They have also done it up very nicely since I saw it at the wedding, though there is surprisingly little hot pink involved in the color scheme, given what I know of Pratishtha's tastes. I even have a bedroom to myself, since Saurabh's mother is out of town this week.
Yesterday Pratishtha dropped me off at her mother's house before going to the University (where she is working on a MA in Italian). They talked me into taking a nap for a few hours. When I got up, Pratishtha's Mummi showed me how to make a kind of fried bread called Paranthas, and we had them for lunch with some spicy eggplant. She seems a little shy about the amount of English she knows, so we don't really talk too much, but I love being with her.
Then she and I went to the largest of Delhi's Gandhi museums. It was mostly photographs and text summaries (Hindi and English) housed in a fairly run-down building. They also had, displayed in glass cases, what were definitely relics: his glasses, the clothes he had been wearing when he died, wool yarn he had spun, books he had read. There was also a collection of spinning wheels, which introduced me to his economic philosophy, which you don't hear so much about in the US. After the museum we went across to Raj Ghat, where he was cremated, then Pratishtha picked us up and we went home.
Later that evening Pratishtha's Mummi presented me with a beautiful silk salwar kameez. Thinking it must be one of here own or Pratishtha's I tried to say I couldn't take it, and that it was too beautiful for the kind of travelling I was going to be doing. She explained that in fact she had had made for me before I came, and finished off by saying in very plain English, "You too are my daughter."
I suppose I brought a larger backpack precisely so that I could bring these kind of memories home.
Airports
I wish I had taken a picture, but I want to mention the Dubai airport anyway. The airport was shiny and new, and filled to the gills with commercialism - more like a duty-free mall, really. To add to that, it was covered with sleeping people, mostly Indian. Walking from gate to gate, you had to navigate a narrow track between people lying on the floor, with scarfs pulled over their faces. Pratishtha's brother, Prateek, suggested it was because many Indians have been immigrating to Dubai, and they might stay in the airport for a few days before figuring out who to bribe in customs. Or something like that.
The Delhi airport, on the other hand, was very run-down, with holes in the ceiling. People seemed very concerned about me wandering around looking for my friend.
The Delhi airport, on the other hand, was very run-down, with holes in the ceiling. People seemed very concerned about me wandering around looking for my friend.
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Vienna II
A week in Vienna produced more pictures than that. So here they are:
Vienna is covered with monuments to all the various famous Austrians, from the Emperors to Goethe. This one is from the Heldenplatz.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum, with geometric shrubbery.
We went to see La Boheme at the Vienna Opera house. They sell standing room tickets on the night of the show for 3.50 Euros, which actually give you a better view than many of the seats. We were packed in in neat rows like sardines, with hardly any air to breathe. It was a little hard on the feet, too, but opera for $5!
The Museum of Modern Art (Mumok) was having a special exhibit on math and art, most of which was not very exciting (pictures of cubes, etc.), except when you get the Fibonacci sequence in neon. Had to sneak a photo for Katrina, at least.
The Mumok also had an exhibit of contemporary art, which was set up in aisles like a grocery store to artistically bring to mind the commercial nature of art. The lighting was horrible (so excuse the blurriness), but I find it hard to resist bizarre things like this. Don't really know how meaningful it is, though....
Maya and I pose in front of Vienna's fake temple. It could almost be Sicily, except for the heavy coats.
Vienna is covered with monuments to all the various famous Austrians, from the Emperors to Goethe. This one is from the Heldenplatz.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum, with geometric shrubbery.
We went to see La Boheme at the Vienna Opera house. They sell standing room tickets on the night of the show for 3.50 Euros, which actually give you a better view than many of the seats. We were packed in in neat rows like sardines, with hardly any air to breathe. It was a little hard on the feet, too, but opera for $5!
The Museum of Modern Art (Mumok) was having a special exhibit on math and art, most of which was not very exciting (pictures of cubes, etc.), except when you get the Fibonacci sequence in neon. Had to sneak a photo for Katrina, at least.
The Mumok also had an exhibit of contemporary art, which was set up in aisles like a grocery store to artistically bring to mind the commercial nature of art. The lighting was horrible (so excuse the blurriness), but I find it hard to resist bizarre things like this. Don't really know how meaningful it is, though....
Maya and I pose in front of Vienna's fake temple. It could almost be Sicily, except for the heavy coats.
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Vienna
Most of what I have been doing in Vienna (besides setting up this silly journal) is going to art museums,
and appreciating architecture both being skills I have had little chance to exercise in the last year. Vienna is quite the place for museums. With the notable exception of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, which has all sorts of beautiful Renaissance Italians and Dutch paintings, almost all the art is from the 1890s - 1930s. It's quite a change from museum going in Italy, but I suppose that is when Vienna was at its artistic peak. Most famous are the Klimts.
I had forgotten how interesting looking at art can be, though it's been a little overwhelming. I've been looking in particular at how different artists paint the lines between things. The Renaissance portraits, for example, are all very soft, while Klimt and Kokoschka favor thicker lines highlighting the outer shape of a subject. And in between looking at art and making pretentious amateur observations, I've been out eating cake and taking pictures of Vienna:
and appreciating architecture both being skills I have had little chance to exercise in the last year. Vienna is quite the place for museums. With the notable exception of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, which has all sorts of beautiful Renaissance Italians and Dutch paintings, almost all the art is from the 1890s - 1930s. It's quite a change from museum going in Italy, but I suppose that is when Vienna was at its artistic peak. Most famous are the Klimts.I had forgotten how interesting looking at art can be, though it's been a little overwhelming. I've been looking in particular at how different artists paint the lines between things. The Renaissance portraits, for example, are all very soft, while Klimt and Kokoschka favor thicker lines highlighting the outer shape of a subject. And in between looking at art and making pretentious amateur observations, I've been out eating cake and taking pictures of Vienna:
The Belvedere, and its gardens.
A statue in front of St. Carl's, which features two imitations of Trajan's Column.
The other side of the Belvedere.
A detail from inside Stephen's Cathedral.
P.S.
I never knew a museum could make me sick, but this one sure came close. Hidden in the basement of the Vienna Mumok (Museum of Modern Art) is a gallery featuring works from the Viennese Actionism movement. Hm. I was about to describe it, but actually you can do a google search if you really want to know. No pictures of this.
Salzburg
In booking my ticket to Vienna, I arranged to have a 6 hour layover in Salzburg. It struck me as one of those hugely over-touristed towns, where every shop sold Mozart candies and perfumes, and every site cost about 10 Euros. I mostly stuck to churches and exploring on foot.
And there certainly were some beautiful churches to look at. This is the main Cathedral. The white plaster ornamentation has black paint rubbed in the crevices, giving the relief an unreal contrast.
After walking around in the miserable rain for a few hours, I gave in and went to a cafe for my first experience of the Austrian afternoon meal of cake and coffee. It was delicious, if over-priced. I don't quite understand how coffeehouses can be such a mainstay of the culture here, and yet you can't get a cup of coffee for less than 3 Euros. I couldn't help but peak, and it was even more at a Starbucks.
One of my favorite sights so far in Austria remains the formal gardens, with geometrically arranged plant-life haunted by white marble statues. I'm sure they walk the grounds at night.
One last view of the gardens, with the representative storm clouds swirling around the famous fort I didn't cough up the money to enter. I think it's going to take some adjusting before I am comfortable spending my money instead of saving it. I'm just so out of practice.
And there certainly were some beautiful churches to look at. This is the main Cathedral. The white plaster ornamentation has black paint rubbed in the crevices, giving the relief an unreal contrast.
After walking around in the miserable rain for a few hours, I gave in and went to a cafe for my first experience of the Austrian afternoon meal of cake and coffee. It was delicious, if over-priced. I don't quite understand how coffeehouses can be such a mainstay of the culture here, and yet you can't get a cup of coffee for less than 3 Euros. I couldn't help but peak, and it was even more at a Starbucks.
One of my favorite sights so far in Austria remains the formal gardens, with geometrically arranged plant-life haunted by white marble statues. I'm sure they walk the grounds at night.
One last view of the gardens, with the representative storm clouds swirling around the famous fort I didn't cough up the money to enter. I think it's going to take some adjusting before I am comfortable spending my money instead of saving it. I'm just so out of practice.
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
Munich
I spent two days in Munich, walking around in an exhausted daze for the most part. I did however notice some
of the sights around me and even took some photos of them.
The building I was most impressed by in Munich was the Neue Rathaus, the new town hall, built around 1900 in a Neo-gothic style. I was surprised to find out that over half of Munich had been destroyed by American bombing in WWII,and that towers in particular had been targeted and destroyed. The Rathaus, like most of Munich's buildings, was reconstructed according to the original architectural plans.
On my second day in Munich, I explored the city with Samuel Schneider, a fellow from Brazil who I met at the Hostel.
He was very curious about how an American felt about the buildings in Munich, seeing as it was I who had destroyed them. He also commented that the US had earned the right to dominate the world by defending justice in WWII. It certainly made a nice change from walking around alone, at least.
Here are few more pictures from Munich. I didn't spend hardly any money on entrance fees, so most of what I saw was architecture and Churches. I did have to try out my much extolled new camera, after all. Also, all the pictures are links to full-size (i.e. huge) versions.
Me at the top of a reconstructed tower
(Look! I'm alive!)
of the sights around me and even took some photos of them.The building I was most impressed by in Munich was the Neue Rathaus, the new town hall, built around 1900 in a Neo-gothic style. I was surprised to find out that over half of Munich had been destroyed by American bombing in WWII,and that towers in particular had been targeted and destroyed. The Rathaus, like most of Munich's buildings, was reconstructed according to the original architectural plans.
On my second day in Munich, I explored the city with Samuel Schneider, a fellow from Brazil who I met at the Hostel.
He was very curious about how an American felt about the buildings in Munich, seeing as it was I who had destroyed them. He also commented that the US had earned the right to dominate the world by defending justice in WWII. It certainly made a nice change from walking around alone, at least.Here are few more pictures from Munich. I didn't spend hardly any money on entrance fees, so most of what I saw was architecture and Churches. I did have to try out my much extolled new camera, after all. Also, all the pictures are links to full-size (i.e. huge) versions.
Gate into the Rathaus
Baroque Church interior
Me at the top of a reconstructed tower
(Look! I'm alive!)Tuesday, March 4, 2008
"Ich fahre um halb acht mit der Zug nach Wien"
I arrived in Vienna on Friday, just in time for the windstorm 'Emma.' The weather in Munich and Salzburg had been fairly miserable, but this was something else, with winds over 140 km/hr. Sunday evening one of the English teachers Maya work for had us over for dinner, and insisted on picking us up from the U-bahn station, lest we be hit by a tree. In the city the wind speeds were less tangible, except for the impression you might fly off like a kite.
My one year of German is not, as it turns out, getting me nearly as far as I had hoped. I am surprised by how much I can understand in a conversation, if people are enunciating clearly (and toning down the Austrian accent). I think I could even manage my end of a conversation, albeit slowly and circuitously. But generally if someone is talking with me, they will switch to English. Everyone here knows English much better than I know German, having started it in school at the age of 8.
I've generally been taking it pretty easy here with Maya, but I have managed to get out and see some sights. And I'll add some more about them when I can get my pictures to load onto the computer.
My one year of German is not, as it turns out, getting me nearly as far as I had hoped. I am surprised by how much I can understand in a conversation, if people are enunciating clearly (and toning down the Austrian accent). I think I could even manage my end of a conversation, albeit slowly and circuitously. But generally if someone is talking with me, they will switch to English. Everyone here knows English much better than I know German, having started it in school at the age of 8.
I've generally been taking it pretty easy here with Maya, but I have managed to get out and see some sights. And I'll add some more about them when I can get my pictures to load onto the computer.
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